In this tutorial, we’ll look into using the lengthen/shorten lines of the Safran pants to adjust the legs and rise.
Like all Deer&Doe patterns, Safran is drafted for an average height of 5’6″ (1m68). Depending of your height and proportions, you might have to add or remove some length from the legs and/or rise. This is a very simple modification, as we will see together!
Lengthen/shorten the legs
Start by tracing your pattern, grading between sizes as needed. Safran’s legs feature two lengthen/shorten lines: the top one corresponds to the rise, and the bottom one to the legs. To adjust the leg length, cut along the latter on the front piece (#1). If you are adding length, place the two parts on a new sheet of pattern paper. Spread or overlap both parts by the desired value, making sure to keep the straight-grain arrows on the same line. Tape in place, then redraw the sides to form uninterrupted curves. Repeat on the back leg (#2).
Lengthen the rise
To lengthen the rise, follow the same procedure: extend the straight-grain arrow to the top of the pattern piece, then cut along the top lengthen/shorten line and spread the two parts by the desired amount while maintaining the arrows aligned. The adjustment line is placed below the fly area, so you won’t have to make any changes to the zipper: Safran’s fly opening is long enough to allow you to put on your pants even with a longer rise.
Shorten the rise
Shortening the rise works the same way. Note that if you need a major length adjustment (above 1.5″), you might have to reduce the fly and zipper length.
Up next: doing a swayback adjustment on Safran!
4 commentaires
Camille, September 15 2016
Given that there are so many parameters that go into pants fitting, we suggest making a muslin, but if you want to adjust before cutting your fabric you can use the crotch length measurement (from the natural waist in the front to the bottom, back up to the natural waist in the back). The base measurement used for Safran is 60cm (23 5/8″) for a size 38, going in 2cm (6/8″) increments for every size. You can compare it to your own measurement to determine how much to lenghten or shorten the rise 🙂
Francesca, September 16 2016
You are so helpful. Thanks very much:). Oh definitely a muslin – I bought some fabric through your links (including some yummy organic denim) and a cheapish denim with poly in it which is destined for the muslin pair. But I do like to start my muslins with as many bases covered as poss, so this is great info. Merci beaucoup!
Camille, September 16 2016
You’re welcome Francesca, we’re happy to help! 🙂
Francesca, September 15 2016
This is very heloful. Question… Can one adjust for this before muslinning? Like by measuring the back to front length or the crotch depth or something and then checking with the pattern? Or wouldn’t it work because of the stretch?